Tuesday, January 29, 2013

A shopping traveler I'm not....



There are many reasons why I failed as an expat wife. The fact that I would rather have a root canal than go shopping ranks high on the list.

My lack of enthusiasm for wasting hundreds of hours (and dollars!) roaming through faraway markets to buy cheap tchotchkes that will eventually languish or worse, tarnish in my basement alongside my four dozen bronze goblets of all sizes from Thailand, goes completely against the natural order of life abroad. An eavesdropper on an expat-to-expat conversation typically overhears something like this: “Do you know what I would have paid for (fill in the blanks) back home?” 

Living in Asia back in the days when boutiques were rare and market stalls my only option, shopping for clothes became my worst nightmare (along with having outfits made from scratch by a local seamstress. I always managed to look like a re-upholstered sofa.)  Can there be anything more humiliating then a size 0 Thai market vendor shaking her head woefully at a giant farang woman, informing her that absolutely nothing in her kiosk could fit the big white woman in a million years?  No wonder shopping became such a demoralizing experience.

And don’t get me started on bargaining. That’s a skill that eludes me to this day, much to the dismay of my husband. He once soundly reamed me out for revealing—in front of the vendor, horrors!—how much I wanted a rattan bag while we were wandering in the souk (warning: place-dropping alert!) in Marrakesh a few years ago. Bargaining over pennies in a developing country just seems wrong to me, no matter what the guide books may say.

My personal philosophy is that it’s better to collect experiences rather than to buy stuff I don’t need. Presented with a choice between shopping and exploring, I will always opt for the latter. But I’m not made of stone. It isn’t always easy to avoid being tempted by some of the gorgeous items on offer, especially if I’m looking for gifts.

On a trip to Rajasthan late last year, we had to come up with a new strategy in the interests of marital harmony: I now wait for my husband to say the words “leave Robin!” before taking this none-too-subtle cue to shut up, exit the scene, and leave the haggling to him.

This can often be easier said than done. We were completing negotiations for the purchase of pashmina shawls for Christmas presents in Jaipur near the gorgeous Hawa Mahal or the Palace of the Winds, when Rodney gave me my marching orders to make myself scarce. There isn’t much room to wander off, though, along the busy main street of Jaipur’s chaotic, over-stimulating Old City. I looked out onto the crowded street scene and imagined being carted off into the sea of humanity—and cows—never to be heard from again.

I didn’t need to worry.

“Getting you safely across the street is my job description,” our pashmina vendor assured me, taking my arm and guiding me to another store he just happened to own, this one offering jewelry.

“Well, I’m an old woman,” I responded, losing sight of Rodney. “I hope that makes it less than likely you are going to sell me to the white slave market.”

Now that would have been a priceless experience! Thankfully, I confess I did buy jewelry. And at a good price too, negotiated by my husband of course.

Thursday, January 24, 2013

What is the purpose of your visit?



I like to imagine that the next time a border official puts that standard question to me, I muster up the nerve to reply: “I’m so glad you asked, sir. The purpose of my visit is to find myself”. But I know better than to be glib with a guy wearing a uniform.

A dozen years ago, I had a serious dust up pre-clearing US customs at Vancouver International Airport. Before I could board an early morning flight to Texas, I was pulled aside and escorted to the ominous sounding ‘secondary inspection’.  Due to a character flaw of mine (I’m pathologically incapable of lying) I had answered truthfully when asked about the purpose of my journey: I was on my way to Houston to lecture and yes, I was being paid (a paltry honorarium, just to be clear). Wrong answer! I was refused entry to the US that day and only later learned being compensated is a no-no under the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA). Oops.

“Houston, we have a problem,” my husband informed my Texas hosts by phone later that day. At least somebody got a good line out of my hysteria.

Writers often travel to seek out fresh content. For example, on a business trip to Amsterdam many years ago, I arranged to have lunch with a British journalist, also named Robin Pascoe, who runs an English-language news site in Holland. That meeting resulted in this essay for Canada’s national newspaper.  And in late 2011, I went to Cambodia to build houses and wrote about it here

Like many writers, however, I have also traveled to learn more about my craft. Last year, as I mentioned in a previous post, I ventured to Santa Fe, New Mexico for a memoir writing retreat led by guru Natalie Goldberg.

I should have saved my money.

It’s not like a dozen stories didn’t emerge from the three-day event (which felt a lot longer). There were the painful participant confessions—read out loud—that kept me tossing and turning at night. Any one of those stories would have entertained readers but I felt there was a measure of unspoken confidentiality preventing me from sharing them.

There had also been the touchy-feely and silent ‘slow-walking’ in a nearby canyon, an exercise that was supposed to ground us. Until we stumbled upon a guy, buck naked, pressed up against a tree and oh yes, against a young girl, who was also naked.  Someone had to break the code of silence in order to alert our fearless workshop leader. Our single file procession quickly did an about face while I laughed, silently, of course.
Far from being an inspiring journey, I felt the Santa Fe retreat defeated its purpose. It completely de-motivated me. In fact, I didn’t write a word for months, full of regret and frankly, disappointment at meeting a long-standing hero of mine and discovering that I didn’t like her that much off the page. Worse, I didn’t learn anything new.

Is any journey ever a total waste of time? No. Even one cut short before I could reach the gate had a purpose. It taught me to read the NAFTA agreement!

I will keep on traveling as I still have so much to learn. More importantly, as a wise woman I admire once said to me: “As long as I’m on a learning curve, I know I am alive.”

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

The Obnoxious Art of Place-Dropping



My flagrant place-dropping lately has left me wincing.

Without considering how pretentious it sounds, I have been inserting my experiences in far-flung and exotic destinations into my conversations, my e-mails, my Facebook status, and of course, this blog.

Place-dropping is as obnoxious a habit as name-dropping, its popular cousin.Worse, according to the author of that cheeky article, it can be addictive.

But to be fair, it’s also a natural hazard of leading a global life, one I remember well from my days as an expatriate.

Sitting around a table at yet another dinner party abroad, it was typical for guests to try to one-up each other with travel tales, usually involving close calls in dodgy airplanes, meals that defied health codes, or accommodation that didn’t live up to expectations or its website photo. Expats take advantage of any opportunity to share their stories with like-minded people because God knows no one ‘at home’ ever wants to listen to them.

And there’s a good reason for that. It’s too easy to come across as smug, superior and downright insufferable (guilty! guilty! guilty!) when the travel gods have smiled on you and the urge to share this good fortune gets the better of you. It can also alienate friends and relatives.

A girlfriend of mine, a former travel agent who is a friend in both my real and virtual worlds, recently hammered home that last point to me. Taking umbrage at my Facebook postings during a fall chock-a-block with interesting trips, she told me that I was just one destination away from being digitally de-friended. Then, she went out and got a second dog because she knew that would make me--dogless for almost two years now and desperate to the point of stalking cute puppies--jealous. It worked.

Is there a way to talk about travel experiences without resorting to becoming a boring place-dropper? It can be difficult, but for what it's worth, here's my advice based on years of experience (pre-Facebook too) in talking around the subject of my travels with friends:

  • Never initiate a conversation with anyone you know (rather, chat away to strangers as they always seem more interested in your stories than your friends);
  • Wear something you purchased on your trip (a gorgeous shawl or a piece of jewellery work well) and then wait to be asked about it. If twenty minutes go by and no questions emerge, inform your friend that you had considered buying them whatever you're wearing but then sadly, forgot;
  • Ask about their recent travels and enjoy watching them struggle not to reciprocate and ask about yours.
Finally, when a friend drones on and on about the travel experiences of another friend you have never even met before in the country you just recently came from, resist all temptation to ask: what am I, chopped liver?

Friday, January 18, 2013

“Ladies and gentlemen, our delay today is thanks to Robin Pascoe.”



On our last holiday together, my husband threatened to make that announcement to the other passengers on our Air Canada flight to Toronto.

We had just experienced several hours delay transferring from the terminal at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris to our plane on the tarmac. Several v e r y s l o w buses, dispatched in an incredibly inefficient manner, ferried the passengers to the plane. Our departure was pushed back by several hours.

My husband believed it was all my fault, just for being on the passenger manifest.

Until he began to travel more often with me, he claims to have never experienced so many flight delays, snow storms, screaming kids, idiots who put their seat right back in your face, broken television monitors (mine, never his), and loud-snoring neighbours. And that was just on our last trip to India.

Given some of the bizarre situations that find me when I fly, I have to agree with Rodney that it’s truly a shame we can’t monetize my perverse travel karma.

I’m not embellishing the following story in the least: Last year, on my way to a memoir writing retreat with guru Natalie Goldberg at the Upaya Zen Center in Santa Fe, New Mexico, I facilitated a seat change to my row for a very distressed woman initially seated behind me. I was deep in my book soon afterwards, but one look from her and I realized, “I moved a chatty Cathy into the next seat. Oy.”

Small talk be damned, she went straight into full confessional. She was dying of cancer, her teenage daughter had died earlier that same year of cancer, and she was traveling with her parents who were seated up in first class. She was uncomfortable, though, because her father had abused her as a child.

Huh?

After listening to her troubles for almost three hours, I was an emotional dish rag albeit one with lots of perspective and gratitude. The conversation, however, proved to be strangely prescient. Participants at the writing retreat tried to out-do each other sharing painful histories.

On another flight, returning to Canada after finishing up a long, fraught, lecture tour that had taken me to Toulouse, Amsterdam, The Hague, Rotterdam, Lausanne, Dusseldorf and Frankfurt, a male business traveler seated beside me unloaded his previous two week journey on me. If I hadn’t experienced every conceivable hassle of my own including a run-in with the Swiss police for not pre-purchasing a bus ticket, I wouldn’t have cared so much that he never bothered to ask me how I was doing. Yadda yadda yadda, he droned on until finally, not being able to stand it another minute, I looked him straight in the eye and said:

“Excuse me, but I think you have mistaken me for your wife.”

Not every one of my airborne encounters has been bad, though. On a flight home from London, when my flying still required liquid fortifications, I boarded without having a chance to get any vodka down my throat. 

As the plane began its roll, I grabbed the arm of the man seated next to me and squeezed. Hard.

Embarrassed, I quickly explained to him that my need for alcohol for the take-off had not been met; that I was not a crazy person; and the minute we were in the air and I had a drink in hand he wouldn’t even be aware I was beside him.

Over dinner, I tried to make nice again.

“What do you do?” I asked him.

“I’m with the moving company AMJ Campbell InternationalWhat do you do?”

“I write books for people who move.”

A new friendship--and lucrative sponsorship of my work--lasted long after we landed in Vancouver.